Surfing culture is known for its community, indulgence in play and connection with nature. However, post-WWII mainstream American culture focused on individual career goals, wealth, and consumerism. Surfing provided a refuge from that rapidly growing and profit-driven corporate society. The 1957 book and 1959 movie Gidget “captured the familiar, competing visions of surfing – as [a] healthy outdoor sport or the domain of dropout delinquents – and forced surfers to struggle with their own self-image as rebels versus the commercial possibilities in postwar America” (Neushul and Westwick 101). The two mediums contrasted in the type of acceptance they extended towards surf culture. The book Gidget describes surfing as a viable alternative lifestyle to postwar American culture, whereas its movie adaptation recasts surfing to conform with mainstream values.
Surfing is a way of life, inspired by the ancient Hawaiians, that prioritizes well-being over profit. Kahoona surfs full-time and primarily sustains himself by living off the ocean. The lifestyles allowed him the freedom to maximize his leisure time and fill it with surfing. In the book Kahoona has every plan to keep living as a “surf-bum” for the rest of his life. His seasonal part-time crew seem to be much more reliant on Gidget for the grocery-store-bought food she brings them. Although Kahoona is not quite fully independent either since he relies on his crew, primarily Moondoggie, for financial sponsorships to travel and perhaps to buy coffee.
In the sea of dominant American culture, it’s difficult for an island of alternative culture to survive without taking a fish from time to time. So, it was expected that surfers who “mocked the culture of conformity and consumerism [sic] couldn’t completely escape it…. The only reason [surfers could chase the endless summer] was because society was affluent enough to support them” (Neushul and Westwick 123). When Gidget learned from Lord Gallo, one of Kahoona’s surf crew, how Kahoona ate and how he was subsidized, she still “ventured one more conventional question: ‘What’s a guy like him going to do when he gets older’” (Kohner 42)? The audience senses that Gidget, despite hearing of Kahoona’s relative self-sufficiency, is still worried about whether Kahoona had, or would have, a job. Lord Gallo quotes the Kahoona in response: “’[T]he only way to get economic independence is to be independent of economics. The more money you make, the less independent you are of it’” (Kohner 42). Gidget was still filled with questions, but she seemed to accept Kahoona’s lifestyle rather than racking her brain for how he ought to change it.
Work culture was prioritized in American culture so Hollywood took the liberty to change the characters for surfing to be perceived in a way that would uphold the conformist mainstream system. In the movie Gidget’s questioning ends up getting under Kahoona’s skin and convincing him to pursue a job at the end of the summer. Gidget talks to Kahoona directly about his endless summer way of life. She tells him, “You’re so self-sufficient. You don’t need anybody” (Wendkos 53:13). Contrary to the book, there is an implication that “self-sufficiency” and community are mutually exclusive. In the book, Kahoona still pursues his surfing travels independently, and a lot of it he couldn’t do without his own skill, but there is still an understanding that his lifestyle would not be possible without his community and their sponsorships.
Gidget continues, “I mean you have to be [different] to be able to turn your back on the way everybody else lives. Well, I mean everybody in life is working for some sort of a goal, or well, I mean, you don’t have a goal. Oh Kahoona, I’m sorry” (53:41). Gidget’s comment indicates that it’s not so great to be different. It makes more sense to be like everybody else who is working towards a goal, usually success in a profit-driven career, that conforms to society’s accepted idea of success. Gidget understands that Kahoona wanted a free life outside of all the rules and regulations, but she then asks, “Only what if you could go back to that time in your life… and you could choose all over again?” (Wendkos 54:28). The question draws a thoughtful and nearly regretful look from Kahoona. At the end of the movie, the audience sees how that conversation influenced him.
Gidget and Moondoggie discover Kahoona has become a pilot, an employee, for the Trans-State Airlines. Kahoona, caught trying to cover it up, says, “Okay, so you know....” and addressing Gidget, “You start a guy like me thinking, it’s fatal” (Wendkos 1:32:22). The movie is defining “a guy like me” as a jobless surf-bum whose rebellious lifestyle will never bring as much fulfillment as working a steady job for a corporation. And when a guy like that starts thinking it’s fatal because they realize their desire to rebel against society is only short term.
Often when one joins surfing, they also join a community. It’s both safer and more fun to be out surfing with those of one’s fellow surf-crew. In general, having a trusted community improves one’s quality of life. The book illustrates the value of community primarily through the relationship between Kahoona and Moondoggie. Moondoggie, and the rest of the crew, generally treat Kahoona with respect and reverence. Kahoona typically reciprocates that respect and maintains his mentor-like disposition. There is a scene in both the book and the movie where Moondoggie and Kahoona get into a fight over Gidget. In the book, there is not much depth to it and no hurtful words are exchanged. In scenes prior to this one Kahoona respects, and even seems supportive of, Moondoggie’s and Gidget’s romantic interest in each other. Moondoggie lashed out because he jumped to conclusions after realizing Gidget had stayed the night in Kahoona’s shack and Kahoona started whistling. Gidget’s excitement about the drama was enough to break them up as she ran out into the surf, and they yelled after her (Kohner 146-148).
The movie’s rendition of the fight is set up to be more confrontational and undermine Kahoona’s and Moondoggie’s relationship. It starts with Kahoona agreeing to help Gidget deceive Moondoggie to make him jealous, which would be out of character of the book’s Kahoona. Then when Moondoggie does eventually find out Gidget is with Kahoona at his beach shack, Kahoona has no qualms against keeping up the farce and deliberately provoking Moondoggie, “Personally, I find [Gidget] delightful company and a very good sport” (Wendkos 1:22:10). Moondoggie predictably punches Kahoona after that. Kahoona provokes Moondoggie some more as he kicks him out. Kahoona’s final comment before slamming the door is fracturing, “You know, underneath it all, I always did think you were a little bit of a square. [sic] Either a man’s got a talent for a certain way of life, or he hasn’t. You never really did belong” (Wendkos 1:23:40).
To tell someone that they don’t belong destroys community. It’s even more cutting when a mentor tells this to their disciple. Not much effort needed to be taken to restore the relationship because they soon split up anyways. Kahoona got a job and Moondoggie went off to university. Community is shown to be transient; rugged individualism is reliable.
For surf-bums and mainstream sports enthusiasts surfing was a leisure activity but they experienced it differently. The nature of surfing requires that surfers be in tune with the weather and the ocean. Respect for your environment keeps you safe and fills you with gratitude. In return for the respect surf-bums gave the ocean, they were able to enthrall themselves with the raw joy of surfing the waves and, for the true “full-timers,” the sustenance from beneath them.
Unfortunately, when surfing was initially adopted by white America there was a loss of respect for the ocean. Surfers like Jack London still learned how to “follow the rules” but only to “dominate” the waves. Their joy was of conquest, not of oneness, love, and play. They too may have felt the consequences of their actions if they disrespected the ocean, but their response would be akin to “breaking” horses – they would learn to follow just enough rules to not get knocked out and then utilize their tricks to get what they wanted. It’s a different mindset that causes the same superficial results but does not entertain the same feelings of “raw joy” one might experience if they approached the ocean (or the horse) with true patience, respect, and care. Mainstream American culture subscribed more towards the “domination of nature” view. The goal to accumulate the highest benefits as fast as possible forgoes patience and, therefore, respect. The ecosystem is not hierarchical, all things in nature are dependent on each other, and rebellious surf culture provides an avenue to reconnect with that truth.
Works Cited
Kohner, Frederick. Gidget. Berkley Books, 2001.
Neushul, Peter, and Peter J. Westwick. The World in the Curl: An Unconventional History of Surfing. Crown Publishers, 2013.
Wendkos, Paul, director. Gidget. 1959. Crackle, https://www.crackle.com/watch/6578.