AMST 152
4 April 2022
Midterm Prompt 2: The History of Modern Surfing
The history of modern surfing begins with the ancient Hawaiians. Surfing was woven into their entire culture. Surfing was central to many activities such as water sports that improved their surfing performance and survival skills in the ocean, courting, displays of a Chief’s prowess, festivals, and ceremonies. The word for surf, fluid that covers newborn babies, to search for truth, all translates to nalu in Hawaiian. Surfing was integral to their way of life. Hawaiian subsistence farming produced such an abundance of food that they had lots of time to dedicate to surfing year-round. Around harvest time they would even have a three-month festival where work and warfare were forbidden (Neushul and Westwick 13). However, the arrival of Westerners sent their cultural activities into disarray. The newly independent and united Americans, as of 1783, had the most influence on the island. America’s profit-driven economy decimated Hawaiian surfing culture, then later revived and transformed it into an industry. Marked by military influence, surfing became notably more accessible to white individuals through the long 1950s.
Americans used Hawaii to extend their economic access to trade and in doing so contributed to the decimation of Hawaiian surfing culture. In 1778, Captain Cook arrived in Hawaii and quickly became impressed by Hawaiian surfing and culture (Neushul and Westwick 13). However, surfing was still not yet the primary attraction for Westerners. Their primary interest was profit. Hawaii was first a way station for the fur trade, until the sea otter populations were wiped out, then a resource for sandalwood, until all the sandalwood forests were cut down. The Hawaiian Chiefs made some profit from the sandalwood trade, starting Hawaii’s transition to a cash economy, and because they enjoyed the luxuries they could buy, they shifted more workers to sandalwood harvests which reduced the workers’ leisure time they could have spent surfing (Neushul and Westwick 15).
The next wave of trade was whaling. The American whalers, who dominated the trade, anchored their ships at Honolulu and turned it into a bustling port. Hawaii further transitioned to the Western market economy and labor system of working long hours, preventing more Hawaiians from going surfing. As whales became nearly extinct, whale oil substitutes were found, and the Civil War disrupted sugar distribution from the American South, the sugar trade was ushered into Hawaii. This time was also marked by a major shift in property rights. The Hawaiian royalty gave up its monopoly on land around 1850 so that commoners, and soon foreigners, could buy land. Land ownership became asymmetric. By 1900, white colonists owned four times the amount of land Hawaiians did. They used the land for pineapple and sugar plantations (Neushul and Westwick 16). All these market activities increased the number of hours that people were expected to work and were thus extremely damaging to Hawaiian surfing culture because they cut leisure time.
Worse still was the disease the foreigners brought with them, causing the Hawaiian population of some 800,000 to drop to 40,000 in about 100 years, since being discovered by Captain Cook. As Hawaiians lived with more and more of their community dying around them, a crisis of spirit took hold (Neushul and Westwick 27). Under such dire circumstances, few people were motivated to surf, and most people lost interest in surfing related festivities. Just before King Kamehameha died in 1819, he expressed doubts in their kapu, or religious taboo, system (Neushul and Westwick 18). This likely made the Christian missionary influence, which spread to Hawaii in 1820, easier for Hawaiians to adopt. The missionaries preached nudity, sex, and gambling to be sins, targeting the Hawaiian habits of “naked men and women frolicking in the water together and betting on surf contests,” with surfing becoming collateral damage (Neushul and Westwick 19). By the time the American white elites and US Marines stormed Queen Liliuokalani’s palace, taking over the government in 1893 and annexing it in 1898, the market economy, disease and religious influences contributed to the near disappearance of surfing culture (Neushul and Westwick 28). Annexation set the stage for surfing culture revival as the white elites pursued it as a leisure time activity and Hawaiians felt the need to reclaim their culture (Neushul and Westwick 32).
Americans assisted in reviving surfing by utilizing it as a Hawaii tourist attraction. The popularization of swimming in the 1890s, the building of Hawaii’s tourism infrastructure in 1901, and already famous Jack London’s surfing article published in 1909, set the stage for “[t]he increase in tourist traffic in the 1910s, with surfing as a central attraction” (Neushul and Westwick 32, 36, 49, 56). From the time the US started gearing up at Pearl Harbor before WWI starting in 1914, Hawaii became a war zone. It stayed that way for three decades as WWII, the Korean War, and the Vietnam War came to pass. But as those wars ended and the Cold War began, in 1947, Hawaii tourism became an escape for many white, middle-class Americans (Neushul and Westwick 115). The industry especially exploded in 1950 with the advent of commercial air travel.
In 1902 the military industry hired the Hawaiian Dredging Company to deepen the Honolulu Harbor. The Dredging Company then created beaches by pumping silt out of wetlands, so that buildable land could be sold to developers. Diverting the wetlands’ water prevented it from flowing to the ocean and creating a channel of freshwater in the coastal coral, sand filling them instead, which changed the shape of the waves. The forceful disturbance of the environment started causing the sand on the beaches to disappear. Hawaii started importing sand from California. And more sand came to fill the reefs which further caused the waves to change (Neushul and Westwick 40-41, 43). As tourism increased so did the engineering of the coast; “the tourist paradise of Waikiki Beach, centered on the image of the surf lifestyle, was an elaborate fiction, engineered and maintained on behalf of the tourist economy” (Neushul and Westwick 43). The tourist industry only cared about the Hawaiians as an “authentic” selling point. The Hawaiians' voices were not heard if they rose in protest to the change in landscape.
As surfing grew in popularity, Americans began to transform the sport. Surfing became much more accessible to middle-class white Americans, many of whom became inspired to visit Hawaii which further fed Hawaii’s tourism industry. The first big change occurred with a surfer, Tom Blake, crossing paths with an aircraft designer, Gerard Vultee. When the two met, Tom Blake was experimenting with surf boards that would make him faster in paddle races and Gerard Vultee had just made the radical new Lockheed Vega 1927 airplane. Their meeting likely led to Tom Blake’s airplane inspired surfboard with “internal ribs topped by a plywood sheath” (Neushul and Westwick 71).
Before WWII, Walter Munk, who was working for the US Army Air Corps, recognized the need for surf forecasting. Unlike surfing, the military needed smaller surf, under five feet, to have good conditions for an amphibious assault (Neushul and Westwick 83). After nearly two-thirds of military craft were lost during Operation Torch in 1942 due to the large surf, the military became convinced that Munk’s idea was one worth pursuing. The state of the waves was vital to successful amphibious warfare. Munk helped create a whole system for predicting the waves based on storms in the middle of the ocean which was refined during 1943 (Neushul and Westwick 85).
At the end of WWII, it became clear frogmen were also crucial to warfare and the military began R&D for better underwater swimming equipment; the ubiquitous wetsuit was the result. The wetsuits were made of synthetic rubber due to the Japanese Malaysian embargo of natural rubber during WWII and for its flexible qualities, shock absorption, and ability to keep water flow down. The new idea was that reduced water flow kept you warm, not staying dry. Eventually nylon, developed in 1934, made its way into the wetsuits, making them less sticky and much easier to get on and off (Neushul and Westwick 95-96).
Another pioneer in surfboard transformation was Robert Simmons. He was a Caltech engineering major and dropped out in 1946 (Neushul and Westwick 98). His experience in hydrodynamics and military R&D led him to experiment with surfboards based on materials and technology developed by the military (Neushul and Westwick 99). He began experimenting with polystyrene foam, an insulation material used in the military aerospace industry, to make surfboards. Because fiberglass boards were easier to seal attachments on, Tom Blake’s idea to attach fins to surfboards finally became popular (Neushul and Westwick 106). Simmons also experimented with surfboard design. He learned from Lindsay Lord’s planing hull design research, which focused on increasing the speed boats could move through water. Simmons designed radically new surfboards featuring “a flat or even concave planning surface on the bottom behind a scarfed nose; a wide, flat tail; downturned rails; and twin fins to direct water flow off the tail” as well as experimenting with shorter, six foot, boards (Neushul and Westwick 101).
The post-WWII shift towards using synthetic materials, such as no longer using wood to make boards, inadvertently brought a lot of pollution to the coasts of Hawaii and around the world. It’s harder to say surfing is about connection with the ocean when the board you stand on has no natural place in the world and will shed microplastics and harm the ecosystem.
Each innovation in the surfing industry made surfing more accessible to the public, but discrimination kept it a white sport. Black Americans were not welcome to go swimming at public pools nor hang out at the beaches (Jefferson 156). There was one beach that was an exception, a refuge, in Santa Monica which became known by some as “The Inkwell.” This is where the legendary Black-Mexican surfer Nick Gabaldon taught himself how to surf in the 1940s (Jefferson 185). Quickly garnering a passion for the sport, he wanted to surf the excellent waves in Malibu. Gabaldon knew he would not be welcomed to the beach if he came in on land, so he paddled 12 miles north to surf Malibu. A champion of surfing, Gabaldon became well respected. Surfing provided a way for Gabaldon to overcome adversity and racism during his time. Gabaldon is an important historical surfing icon recognized for initiating the breaking down of surfing’s racial barriers (Yelland).
In the American experience, race has often been a justifying factor for “manifest destiny,” for extending the American empire even if it harms the native peoples of other lands. American culture has encouraged “otherness” between people of different skin tones and features because the wealthy oligarchs have recognized the power they gain from the weakened and disconnected masses. Division of the people makes room for an exploitative environment where the neglect of people’s well-being is allowed. The concentration of wealth in the hands of the few is inherently divisive – there can only be so many “winners.” Until American primary values shift to ones focused on well-being rather than on dollars, America will be plagued with hate of “the other” and corruption.
Works Cited
Jefferson, Alison Rose. “African American Leisure Space in Santa Monica: The Beach Sometimes Known As the "Inkwell," 1900s-1960s.” The Historical Society of Southern California, vol. 91, no. 2, 2009, pp. 155-189.
Neushul, Peter, and Peter J. Westwick. The World in the Curl: An Unconventional History of Surfing. Crown Publishers, 2013.
Yelland, Richard, director. 12 Miles North: The Nick Gabaldon Story. 2012. YouTube, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4p4a69jGifw.